Mary Katrantzou‘s quintessential patterns – complex, intricate and fashionably busy – were clearly representative of the madness that was backstage at the show.
Before we come to the clothes, let’s not forget the hair and make-up acting as both the foundation and enhancer to Mary’s star pieces. Visionary hair stylist Eugene Souleiman was on hand to bring his innovative eye to the models’ over-styled locks. “The collection and the make-up is so bloody beautiful, so full of texture with enlarged prints,” said a very calm Souleiman just moments before the show, “so we wanted to do something simple and very elegant.” This was envisioned in a Chelsea-facelift tight bun, sat low and tucked under; which Souleiman declared as, “aerodynamic, like a bicycle helmet that extends the shape of the head.” For Souleiman Mary’s collection was more adult-like, more grown-up, so the hair matched the new phase for a more mature collection.
As for the make-up, Val Garland – whose work has been seen in the likes of LOVE, American Vogue and New York Times Magazine – made her beauty choices correlate much closer with Mary’s detailed wares. “There is a shine in the clothes and a reference to money. I wanted to take these elements, hint at them and turn them into something graphic atop a glossy skin base and pale mouth,” said Val – who had an impressive stack of playful necklaces that included a cheeky blue mould of male naughty bits! Looking for the specific colour of a blue ink, ball point pen and a thickness that would stick, Val created a whole new medium and colour using a lip colour and eye shadow that was slicked dramatically in a solid swoop onto all the girls . “When the girls walk down the runway, from far away you might question if it is a navy blue on the lid and as they get closer they’ll notice it’s more a stamp, which of course, fits perfectly with Mary’s stamp effect across the collection.”
As the show time approached as did the buzz with photographers, writers and bloggers backstage – including blogger Susie Bubble, illustrator Pippa McManus (who looked amazing in a Mary K lipstick skirt!) and Suzy Menkes who crowded round the girls for a closer look at the shimmering designs. We just can’t wait to tell you what happened at the show!