New York Fashion Week went out with an oh-so-fashionable bang with sexy sportwear at Jeremy Scott, colour pop prints at Proenza Schouler and a sci-fi inspired collection from ex-Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs. Of course our girl Indigo Clarke was there to witness the lot. Read on for her musings on the final NYFW shows…
It’s impossible not to love what Jeremy Scott brings to NYFW each season – a necessary dose of fashion insanity. Each season the crowd is a mash-up of celebs including A$AP Rocky, Grimes, Leigh Lezark Paris Hilton and Nicky Minaj thrown into a bonkers audience of fans and club kids donning Scott’s bold and brash fetish-rave wares. This time around, Jared Leto was the star of the front row – strutting in moments before the show, delayed in his honour, and broadcasting to the audience, “my apologies. You all look fabulous”. The vision for AW14 was all-American, with fun athletic-influenced looks that practically screamed U-S-A! With “We will rock you” blasting, guys and gals streamed past in matching football-inspired wear including jersey style dresses in cartoon-like red, blue and yellow ultra-furry fabrics paired with patent lace-up leggings. There were also re-workings of baseball and basketball uniforms, one orange bomber jacket dress appearing as a deconstructed basketball while another oversized mesh tank was teamed with risqué underwear, garter-belt and stockings. What appeared initially as lingerie-like detailing on many dresses and bodysuits, was actually a play on lacing consistent with that of a football, while footwear was particularly striking – sporty high-heeled Adidas sneakers and thigh-high boots crafted from sporty shin-pads.
Proenza Schouler can always be counted on to offer something completely different to every other designer – and this season was no exception. Serving up the reverse of the biggest trend of NYFW, a monochrome palette, the designer’s sent out ensembles in optimistically popping hues including electric blue, red, teal and orange – the perfect antidote to the bleak winter weather. Prints were graphic and bold, with striking crackle and wood-grain patterns appearing on experimental coats, dresses, slim trousers and skirts, while volume was also at play – silhouettes were sculptural and hour-glass, sitting away from the body and featuring broad rounded shoulders.
Stepping out of the most revolting NY winter evening – ice-cold rain causing the street’s filthy snow piles to turn into hazardous wells of grey slush – it was more than fitting to walk into Marc Jacobs’ stormy AW14 set, complete with sculptural fabric clouds suspended in the rafters overhead. As the audience perched on white leather pods with faux-clouds hanging overhead, drone-like models with bleached eyebrows and severe blunt-cut bobbed wigs and wide headbands stalked through the space as though in a trance to a creepy spoken-word rendition of early 20th Century tune, “Happy Days are Here Again”. Appearing as a chic alien race, lookalike models donned 60s-mod meets 90s-raver Sci-Fi uniforms – go-go boots and chunky sneakers, flared knit leggings and boxy tunic combos, and mink bomber jackets atop sparse, elongated dresses with side split among the key pieces. Soft and futuristic, the collection featured minimal, clean shapes with low scoop and v-necklines in summery, lightweight fabrics and a pale, neutral palette of soft pink, peach, taupe and white. Breaking the minimalism, shimmering all-over sequin and bead embellished cocktail dresses added razzle-dazzle, while the highlights were the final light-as-air floor-length dresses featuring wave-like tiers of pastel organza.
Don’t miss out on all the action from London Fashion Week! We’ll be live streaming our Topshop Unique show in virtual reality this Sunday. Find out more.