THE FULL REPORT: FASHION EAST AW14

Lulu Kennedy’s troupe of talented misfits are back again. After stellar seasons past, which featured the likes of Gareth Pugh and Meadham Kirchhoff, and more recently our latest NEWGEN stars Claire Barrow and Ryan Lo, Fashion East’s AW14 show was an all girl show starring second time recipient Ashley Williams and newbies Helen Lawrence and Lou Alsop.

LOU ALSOP AW14

Who… Recent graduate of Westminster’s Fashion BA, Louise Alsop, makes her debut as part of the Fashion East set.

Where… The turbine hall once again.

Front Row… A brilliant line-up of fashion it-girls like Daisy Lowe, Angela Scanlon and Yasmin le Bon alongside designers Henry Holland and Louise Gray, and buying big wigs such as Tina Leung.

Playlist… Driving metal.

The collection in 5 words… Hopeless, loveless, radical skater girl.

What we loved… The raw edges on everything from the wide legged culottes to the big boxy t-shirts, and the wispy layers of chiffon adding grace to the boyish looks.

Hero piece… An ethereal white column dress cinched at the waist with white rope, and seemingly made light as air.

Inspired by… Simply instinct. “It’s pieces that come together,” she says, “these are clothes that I have, or that I want to want!” said Alsop.

Beauty and hair look… Matted greasy plaits and a fresh face looked like a teenager who’d been hanging around the skate park the whole weekend.

End Notes… We especially loved the hue of the pieces described as, “the colour of a box seen in an episode of South Park.” It’s all in the details, don’t you know!

HELEN LAWRENCE

What… Knitwear enthusiast, Helen Lawrence, a Central Saint Martins graduate who already has a collaboration with menswear designer Craig Green under her belt.

Playlist… Big bass dubstep.

The collection in 5 words… Fluffy, foxy, raw, racy, rebellious.

What we loved… The unusual flashes of skin from underneath the fuzzy mohair knits: a peep of back here, a slash to the sternum there. One top was entirely backless and sideless, held together only by a ribbon belt of clear plastic.

Hero piece… A cropped jumper in fuzzy mint green mohair paired with an a-line skirt made of printed glossed denim – very 90s, very now.

Inspired by… The longstanding dichotomy of the child who longs to look like a grown-up, and the adult who wishes she could just play dress-up again.

Beauty and hair look… Matted greasy plaits and a fresh face looked like a teenager who’d been hanging around the skate park the whole weekend.

End Notes… We’ve got a bit of a thing for knits right now so naturally we’ve got our eyes set on this one for very big things.

ASHLEY WILLIAMS 

What… The achnigly hip, funkyoffish Ashley Williams is back for her third and final hurrah with Fashion East. (Seriously, please don’t go!)

Playlist… Sultry spy music.

The collection in 5 words… Uptown provocateur with a kooky streak.

What we loved… From the first look – a mysterious low-slung trench coat that was reminiscent of an incognito spy – to the final procession of fringed leather horse-head pieces, we loved the sleek exuberance throughout.

Hero piece… Those amazing patchwork jeans with metallic flowers and florid blooms on the derriere! *CRAVE*

Inspired by… Mississippi country girls, Calamity Jane and trouble in Prairie Land.

Beauty look… Ali McGraw-style centre parted shiny locks and a fresh-faced beauty.

End Notes… We’re sad to see this pop-culture-loving designer leave Fashion East and hope she’ll be back at London Fashion Week next season… I mean, how can we go without those cuddle poodle-dog shaped bags!

Watch the full show below.