1205 SS15

WHO: NEWGEN recipient 1205 – aka designer Paula Gerbase – aka queen of androgynous tailoring. Paula earnt her (pin)stripes at iconic Savile Row tailors Hardy Amies and Kilgour before setting up her own label.

WHAT: The designer’s SS15 catwalk show, shown as part of the Topshop sponsored NEWGEN initiative.

WHERE: The London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine – transformed from medical training ground to an industrial grey-walled catwalk space.

FRONT ROW: The guest list was kept tight-knit with a handful of top editors including Grazia’s Gemma Hayward and every UK newspaper from the Indie to the Times – each given a handmade blanket on their seat. Snug!

COLLECTION IN 5 WORDS: Precise, tailored, deconstructed, stripped-back, fresh.

PLAYLIST: An eerie soundtrack of minimalist bass lines and off-beat orchestral notes.

WHAT WE LOVED: The totally new take on tailoring – wide oversized culottes, irregular windowpane prints and asymmetric pleated shifts were suiting staples taken to a whole new level.

INSPIRED BY: Paula’s starting point was abstract painter Agnes Martin and her stark depictions of the desert. And she also looked to Maths: “I was led by the mathematics of nature – the reality of imperfection. Everything is deconstructed but with total precision.”

HERO PIECE: The long-line tabard top, cut from slate-grey leather and sliced up the sides.

HAIR & BEAUTY: Super-slick ponytails fastened with leather bands at the nape, brushed-out brows and high-shine cheekbones.

WHAT THE SHOW NOTES SAID: “A study of the tension between perfection and imbalance.”

WHAT THE EDITORS SAID:

“Stunning simplicity.” @ChloeBeeney

“Easy understated elegance” @BrownsFashion

Photos by Stylonylon. Words Holly Swayne.